“No one ever
asked about what I saw in my life”- Jama Masjid
ADITI GYANESH
“People think of me when they think
of Delhi. They tell their children, stories about me, and my qualities that I
am the largest of all mosques in country. I am sacred and beautiful, one must
see me whenever they come to Delhi but no one ever asked what I saw in these
many days of my life.” says the silent and extremely beautiful Jama Masjid.
Through the most rushing bazaars of India like
Chandani Chowk and Chawari Bazaar a lane leads to the most beautiful
architecture of this country of Mughal period, Jama Masjid. “People come and see its beauty, appreciates it, click
pictures and goes back to their home and write about it but they never listen
to what the silent walls and atmosphere of Jama Masjid wants to say.” says
Jalal Ahmad, shopkeeper in Jama Masjid lane.
Sitting on its staircase, in a very silent and
peaceful conversation with this beautiful alive monument and its atmosphere I
heard about its experiences and come to know what changes it saw in its
surroundings. I saw Delhi and my country from his eyes and felt like its still alive.
Jama Masjid started with his experience with people
who come to see them. I know I am beautiful and have been praised enough by
everyone in books that now I want people to just know about me instead of
writing.
I was made by Shah Jahan for Ibadat and my doors were open for everyone but today other people
except Muslims are scared of coming near to me. I feel sad when people fight
over me and divide the country on name of caste and religion. I am made for all
of them. I am seeing this country from more than 300 years, I have experienced
more than you all. If I start telling my stories they are endless in number.
People study and write about history of India, but
they only come to me when they need to appreciate Mughal architecture in their
literature. I wonder did they ever thought of talking to me about what I saw?
What is there in my heart? Appreciation to me is not the thing which makes me
happy, I want share my experiences with my country to all.
When I was made by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in
1658, I was known as Masjid-i-Jahan-Numa,
which means Mosque commanding the view of the world. I was largest among all
the mosques in the country and tallest too, now I can see many buildings taller
than me which blocks my vision to see my country. I experienced and saw almost
every-thing that happened in India, from its slavery to British to its freedom
and watching it till date.
I was very young when this all started, I was the
only mosque in front of Red fort with gardens all around who saw and heard
about this firstly in people gathering in my premises. British people started establishing
its colonial powers in India in 1751 after Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb’s death.
Evils in society, massacres famines and wars started eroding its roots of
tradition and culture. British still continued their hardship to Indians. It
was the most tearful experience for me when I saw Indian helpless but it was
written in my fate to stand still and watch all this.
Seasons passed and I saw many heart touching
incidents that daggered me in my heart but I was helpless. Ten million people
died in Bengal famine and many sacrificed their life for freedom in Revolt of
1857, our first war for freedom but we failed.
Among these sorrowful days of my country many
valuable reforms also took place in country like abolition of Sati system and
Railway, Postal and telegraph line was introduced in India. We were somehow
enlightened about developing our communication skills with the important people
of the country.
More than 200 years has almost passed when these
changes took place around me. But still I was watching all this from thousand
miles away. But when British crown officially took over Indian government in
1858, the capital of the country was transferred to Delhi from Calcutta after
that.
Till British came in Delhi many changes took around
me like development of most popular bazars of India- Chandani Chowk and Chawari Bazar. These were developed in 17
century to mid of 19 century when British were far away from Delhi. This was
the most peaceful time that Delhi ever experienced.
If I tell you about Chandani chowk, this was the
first wholesale market setup in India. Firstly, there used to be a canal that
ran through the middle of the streets as water supply scheme and moonlit
reflecting on this canal gave its name as “Chandani”.
It was designed by Aurangzeb’s daughter Jahan Ara. Now I would tell about how
people changed here in this time period. Today it’s the marketing hub for
marriages and eateries for people all over the country. But the only thing that
always triggered my mind is the division among the people of high class and low
class. I cry in my heart when I see those people on roadside struggling for
food and shelter daily. People do big talks but never adopt them and I am bound
to stand here helplessly.
He move on to his nearby places and markets like
Meena Bazar and Chawari Bazar and tells about his experience. You might not
find those 300 years old shops around me but there are many shops here which I
am seeing for more than 60-70 years. You can see those shops of iron goods made
from it. And the most beautiful thing I can define around me, are these Piegons. You always find them sitting
here on my stairs and arc but did you ever thought WHY? They are my messengers
who are free to move all over the country and bring messages to me about its
condition. Moving on my back, you may find the busy bazaar of all time- Chawari
Bazaar. Chawari Bazar has gone through a terrible change from a Tawaif Kothis to today’s Card Bazaar, with a Metro station
facility in middle of the crowded bazaar. I must say people in India have taken
command over technology today.
People have really astonished me with their
development but the only thing that hurts me is the terror they have entwined
around me and they are still under developed mentally, which keeps many of the
people away from me. They attacked me different years in 2002 and 2007 but I
would like to tell them that attacking on me will not help them, as god is one
and if you are committing crime you will be punished.
Coming back to history when Delhi was announced as
capital, this was the time when I started seeing sects among people around me.
People started making their separate leagues which divided the community.
Disaster was all around the country. Massacres like Jallianwala Bagh took
place. India was always known as land of religions but British were successful
in dividing us. Although we got freedom with the efforts of our great leaders
in 1948 but our society is still crept in slavery of caste, creed, religion,
poverty, corruption and the list goes on. They think of attacking me in
aggressiveness will help them but I will be standing here like this only as I
am standing here from 300 years. “I can
only think of changing the country but you are the one who can do so. So please
start thinking.”
And the sound faded in the ambience of Namaz of
evening with the sounds made by peigons as they flew away. Still crowds in
pictures of his stories started moving in front of my eyes and made me think
about what he said about today’s era.